On Place de la Canourgue, Bistrot Umami serves Korean fusion cuisine signed by Amélie Young Min, a chef trained between Seoul and Paris. The plates are made for sharing, the flavors step away from classic banchan toward Southern French bistro territory: chili, soy, fresh herbs, market vegetables. The interior is intimate, about twenty seats, and the shaded terrace opens onto one of the loveliest squares in the city. Service is relaxed, the menu shifts with the seasons, and you always leave feeling you've discovered something.