The best seat in a bar is at the counter, and chef Sophia Corá knows it. She spent her childhood in Uruguay and brought back references that fit naturally into Santa Cecília. That includes the counter, where you can watch the kitchen, see what everyone is ordering and start a conversation with the person next to you. It may sound like a small detail, but the interaction creates a sense of familiarity that spreads through the whole bar, right out to the pavement tables. The menu completes the picture with comforting choices such as fried polenta with Uruguayan parmesan, medialunas and pancho, Uruguay's take on a hot dog.