Rouge sits in the antique-dealers' district, on a terrace running along the old Château fortress, looking out over the port Lympia. Everything is built so people talk: a long counter where you're welcomed for a glass, natural wines the team pours for you to taste before you pick, and a menu of real small plates in mini-portions that push you to order for two, then three. Around a hundred references, dishes from the South-West, an easy, friendly crowd. Open every day, no reservation, kitchen running late.