When night falls over Recife Antigo, the pavement outside Frege tends to fill up before the tables inside do. People enjoy the breeze on the street, which gets warmer as the volume goes up. Thursdays might bring MPB. Fridays usually mean forró. Whatever the day, it is worth checking the line-up and getting yourself ready not to stay seated. Between one song and the next, one beer and the next, there are snacks and dishes to share that taste like Brazil itself: carne de sol, baião de dois, even filé à parmegiana with pasta.